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Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

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mpreadw8 View Drop Down
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  Quote mpreadw8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Front Wheel Bearing Replacement
    Posted: 14-Nov-2013 at 02:34
Hello everyone,

I've a had a vibration coming from the front right wheel of my W8 due to what I believe is a bad wheel bearing. The rims and tires are brand new so I'm certain now it's not a wheel balancing problem. Anybody have any good ideas about how to get this job done the best way? Dealing with that pressed hub? Also, is it not a bad idea to by a new hub while you're at it or just stick to the bearing?

I'm also not really sure what parts to get based on what this diagram shows me with the two different setups.

http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=5381966&ukey_assembly=741988

Any advice would be much appreciated!
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  Quote Superman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-Nov-2013 at 03:16
You should not need a new hub, that is just in a worst case when the bearing wears down and the hub is damaged. Although the wheels and tires are new there could still be a problem. Do the wheels have hub-centric rings? Did they static (instead of two plane) balance the wheels? When is the last time the shocks where replaced? Lastly, lift the wheel and pull/push it and see if there is any slack, that is a tell sign of a bad wheel bearing, well that along with the roar noise.
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  Quote VWAffe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-Dec-2013 at 05:00
Bearing is usually enough. Beware that the ETKA VIN split between old (pressed in to knuckle) and new (bolt-in flanged) style isn't entirely accurate. My car has the newer style (easier to change), but ETKA said I had the old ones. Cost me a couple of hours of lift time to go fetch the right part.

If Amazon is still offering it for sale cheap, buying the OTC Hub Tamer at 50% of MSRP will pay for itself in one use. So easy, it feels like cheating. It's more important for the early style bearing, but equally useful for the new ones, too: presses hub & bearing in & out while knuckle is on car.
'03 W8 Sedan 6MT     ..."it goes to 11!"
'02 V6 Wagon 4Mo 5MT (Swap In Work)     ...both black on black w/ limo tint
'14 JSW TDI 6MT
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  Quote Superman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-Dec-2013 at 06:52
Originally posted by VWAffe

If Amazon is still offering it for sale cheap, buying the OTC Hub Tamer at 50% of MSRP will pay for itself in one use.

This thing?
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000O1E54W/
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  Quote VWAffe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-Dec-2013 at 05:47
That's the one, based on what I said. The actual updated, current kit by OTC is called the "Hub Grappler", here, mis-labeled as a "Grabber".
'03 W8 Sedan 6MT     ..."it goes to 11!"
'02 V6 Wagon 4Mo 5MT (Swap In Work)     ...both black on black w/ limo tint
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  Quote srdavis872 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-Dec-2013 at 15:05
I'm going to be doing this on mine soon. Have been having bad wheel bearing noise that I assumed where the tires because when I'd swap to better tires most of the noticeable noise would go away, but there was still some and it's getting worse and more obviously wheel bearing. The strange thing is there is no noticeable play when trying to move the wheel, but the sound is obvious. I would imagine all W8s have the bolt in style, pretty sure the uprights are specific to W8s and I doubt they would change in the few years they made w8s.
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  Quote fitzski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-Dec-2013 at 16:23
I haven't dealt with a "flanged" bearing... but why is a bearing puller/press required at all for this job? You would need a 3-jaw puller to get the hub out, and the inner race off the hub, but is the bearing still pressed into the knuckle, or is it completely captive in the flanged mount? Even if it is pressed, can it not be pressed in (using 1/4 turn, bolt-to-bolt increments) using the flange bolts?

When reinstalling the hub, use the old axle bolt to press it into the bearing, then remove the old bolt and do final torque setting with the new replacement bolt.



Edited by fitzski - 27-Dec-2013 at 16:25
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  Quote srdavis872 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-Jan-2014 at 16:12
I just did this over the weekend. Though it is a flanged style bearing, it's a fairly tight fit, and after 144k miles of driving, it gets a lot of debris and corrosion between the bearing flange and the upright. I unbolted mine and whacked it with a hammer and couldn't get it free. Took it to my shop and threw it on the 20 ton press and even then it took more pressure than I had expected to get it to come out. Going back together was fine because I cleaned up the corrosion and the new bearing didn't even need to be pressed in at all, just slide right in place.
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  Quote rustybronco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-Jan-2014 at 19:19
Originally posted by srdavis872

I would imagine all W8s have the bolt in style, pretty sure the uprights are specific to W8s and I doubt they would change in the few years they made w8s.


My '03 does not have the bolt in's. I believe it was a mid '03 change.
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  Quote srdavis872 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-Jan-2014 at 00:08
Originally posted by rustybronco

Originally posted by srdavis872

I would imagine all W8s have the bolt in style, pretty sure the uprights are specific to W8s and I doubt they would change in the few years they made w8s.


My '03 does not have the bolt in's. I believe it was a mid '03 change.


Good to know. Do you know what size bearings your took? I ordered mine through a friend who owns a local VAG shop and he got me the wrong ones, so I had to rush and find someone else local that had the right ones since I didn't know until I had it all apart. Just wondering if he did get me the right ones, from the wrong side of the split. Mines an '03 also.
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