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HOW-TO: Oil & Filter Change (Pictures!)

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fitzski View Drop Down
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  Quote fitzski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: HOW-TO: Oil & Filter Change (Pictures!)
    Posted: 19-Dec-2006 at 09:23

HOW-TO: DIY Passat W8 Oil & Filter change

An oil & filter change is routine maintenance on any car, and maintaining a strict schedule is cheap insurance against potentially very costly problems, especially with the W8 engine.

Oil & Filter Change Interval
The OE drain interval is every 10,000 miles or 16,000 kilometres. Considering the potential cost of problems associated with the W8 motor, many owners prefer a shorter interval (5,000 miles/8,000 kilometres) for peace of mind. Ideally, Used Oil Analysis (UOA) should be used to verify the ability of your oil to protect your engine, up to the OE drain interval. I currently use the shorter interval, but will use UOA to validate a longer interval for my car.

Oil Filters
There are many sources for filters, including the dealer. You can save some money purchasing through other retailers - the filter should be readily available, as it is shared with a number of other engines.
  • OE part number: 021 115 561B*

  • OE part number: 021 115 562A*

  • Mann part number: HU 932/6 n

  • Hengst part number: E1001H D28
  • * I'm not sure if there is a filter difference for the two OE part numbers; I don't believe so. My last filter was OE, made by Hengst. The box was marked as 562A, and the filter in the box was marked 561B - go figure. Both numbers are listed as a cross reference by Hengst.

    Oil Specification
    VW defines very strict oil specifications for their engines; be sure you understand what specification applies, and that your selected oil is in compliance. For the W8, the specification string is VW 502.00, VW 503.01, or VW 505.01. Permissible grades are 5W40, 10W40, 15W50 (note: 505.01 spec oil is only in 5W40 grade).

    Unfortunately, there is a startling lack of consistency across the published information from VW (i.e. Bentley manual, owners manuals, continental variations, etc.). If you're not sure, check with your dealer (but don't expect much clarity there, either!).

    Capacity is 9 quarts or 8.5 litres.

    Exceeding the OE drain interval will void your warranty. Using oil that does not meet the specification will void your warranty.

    Tools
    • Car ramps

    • Stubby flathead screwdriver (or comparable for removing skidplate screws)

    • Thin flathead screwdriver (or comparable for removing oil filter cap O-ring)

    • Catch basin (large enough for at least 10 litres)

    • 10mm socket

    • 19mm wrench/socket

    • 6mm Allen wrench

    • Channel lock pliers (or comparable for removing oil filter cap, 36mm)


    Step 1: Raise the car
    Ramps are easiest. If you haven't used ramps with your car before, ensure the approach angle is adequate. Many retail ramps are too steep, and the front bumper will hit the ramp before the wheels. I made my own (pictured), with a 15 degree incline, and Rhino Ramps, with a 17 degree incline, are a common purchase for VW owners. Pop the hood before your hands get dirty.


    Step 2: Remove the skidplate
    There are 10 attachment points, identified below.


    The centre yellow circle is a 10mm nut on a threaded post; remove this first. The 4 blue circles are a pair of plastic quick screws in each wheel well; remove them second. They will come completely out using the stubby flathead; set them aside. The 5 red circles are under the car, and are metal quick screws. Use a stubby flathead screwdriver to undo the screw. If the rubber washer is still there, the screws will stay captive in the skidplate, otherwise, they will come out.

    Step 3: Drain the oil pan
    Undo (but don't remove) the oil fill cap, at the front right of the engine. Locate the drain plug bolt, on the drivers side of the aluminum oil pan. (Note the roughly triangular impression in the oil pan with 3 holes - this is easily located, and then you can find the drain plug bolt. This depression is for the extended drain interval oil monitor available on Euro W8's.)


    Position your catch basin under the drain hole, being mindful that you'll get a good arc as it pours out! With a 19mm socket, loosen the drain plug bolt, then unscrew it by hand. Allow the oil to drain completely.


    Step 4: Replace the crush washer
    Your new filter may have come with a crush washer. Replace the old washer on the drain plug bolt with the new one. Ensure the bolt and the oil pan threads are clean and free of debris. Tighten the drain plug bolt to 30 Nm (22 ft lb).

    Step 5: Drain the oil filter
    Locate the oil filter beside the right front wheel well; it's a round black plastic cap, with a large metal bolt in the middle.


    Position your catch basin under the filter, and remove the bolt with a 6mm Allen wrench. A fair bit of oil will drain out. Reinstall the bolt when the oil is reduced to a slow drip.


    Step 6: Remove the oil filter
    Have your catch basin handy. I'm not sure on the size of the centre nut of the oil filter cap, but I use a pair of channel lock pliers to easily unscrew the filter. Once it is unthreaded a quarter turn, you should be able to unthread the rest by hand. The filter stays attached to the cap, so as you pull it down and out, tip it over your catch basin. To remove the filter from the cap, just pull straight up and it will release - it's a pretty snug fit. Note the orientation (flange side against the cap).

    Edit: The filter cap is 36mm; if you're a cyclist/bike mechanic, you probably have a headset tool that works (Park HCW-15)!

    Step 7: Replace the O-ring
    Your new filter should have come with a replacement O-ring for the filter cap. Using a thin flathead screwdriver, remove the old O-ring, and slip on the new one. I usually like to moisten the new O-ring with a bit of oil, so it threads back into the filter housing a little easier and doesn't bind up.


    Step 8: Install the new filter
    Place the new filter onto the spindle of the filter cap, pressing down to ensure it is seated properly. It should fit snugly. Make sure the threads on the filter cap and on the filter housing are clean and free of debris, and reinstall. Again, you should be able to get it snug with your hands/fingers, and use channel lock pliers for an extra quarter turn.

    Step 9: Fill with oil
    With your new oil, start filling up. I always use a funnel to avoid spills, and also so that I can leave each bottle tipped upside down for a minute or two and make sure I get every expensive drop. Capacity is 9 quarts or 8.5 litres.


    Once you get down to the last couple of bottles, check the dipstick level. Ensure the level is visible on the dipstick, and then start the car for ~30 secs to fill the filter reservoir. The oil pressure light may come on, and you may get a second or two of funny noise. Shut off the car, check the level, and top up as required. I fill to the top of the hash mark and no more. You may want to wait until you've gone for a short drive before checking the final level; I check mine a few times over the course of the next couple of days.

    DO NOT OVERFILL!

    DO NOT FORGET THE OIL FILL CAP!


    Step 10: Reassemble & clean-up
    Double check that everything is snugged up tight, re-attach the skid plate (make sure it is positioned correctly before attaching any screws, i.e. the front corners are tucked in to the bumper lip, that it is behind the wheel well cover, etc.), make sure you've attached the oil fill cap. If you keep a log book, make your notes, and write down the mileage for the next change.

    Disposing of oil - I pour my used motor oil into empty windshield washer fluid bottles that I can take to an auto shop that will recycle it.

    That's the end. Treat your car well, and it will (hopefully!) treat you well!


    Edited by fitzski - 08-Feb-2010 at 07:52
    2003 Passat W8 Variant
    (Pacific Blue, Tan, 6sp)
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    B5crazy View Drop Down
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      Quote B5crazy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-Dec-2006 at 10:32
    Very nice write-up.

    One thing I miss about my 1.8T is that I could put a lot of oil in the new filter before installing it. This is very hard and messy to do with the W8.

    Anyone know the exact size and pitch for the allen wrench bolt? I'd like to replace it with a Fumoto valve is possible. As draining the filter is very messy.

    I've found that a floor jack is all I meed to change the oil. By jacking up just the passenger side I also angle the car to get the most oil out of the pan.
    2004 W8 Variant 6MT Pacific Blue/Grey
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    fitzski View Drop Down
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      Quote fitzski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-Dec-2006 at 11:29
    For the oil filter drain bolt, I used a ball-end Allen wrench to remove it - that lets me keep my hands well out of the way as the oil starts to come out. No mess at all.
    2003 Passat W8 Variant
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      Quote SirRangeALot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-Dec-2006 at 13:34
    Sweet!
    Get a wagon. Bitches love wagons.
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      Quote B5crazy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-Jan-2007 at 13:18
    I use a 36mm crow's foot wrench to remove and install the oil filter cover to torque specs.

    I've also found the best tool for the belly pan screws is a quarter. Also for our Canadian members a Loony would probably work fine.

    Before installing the new oil filter and cap I add some oil to the center of the filter just to get some oil into the engine quicker.
    2004 W8 Variant 6MT Pacific Blue/Grey
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    2012 Golf R 4dr CW

    http://mysite.verizon.net/b5crazy/
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      Quote Carps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-Feb-2007 at 06:33
    Excellent write up ! Being in the UK I have the onboard oil analysis. No idea how good this is. Any informed opinions out there?
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      Quote B5crazy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-Feb-2007 at 20:27
    Originally posted by Carps

    Excellent write up ! Being in the UK I have the onboard oil analysis. No idea how good this is. Any informed opinions out there?


    WTF? I didn't even know it existed for a W8. How is the information displayed? YOu folks in the EU get all the bells and whistles.
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      Quote Carps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-Mar-2007 at 15:15
    Are those BBS RX wheels on the feature car ? If so, what size/offset would they be ?
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      Quote VWAffe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-Apr-2007 at 02:02
    Originally posted by B5crazy

    Originally posted by Carps

    Excellent write up ! Being in the UK I have the onboard oil analysis. No idea how good this is. Any informed opinions out there?


    WTF? I didn't even know it existed for a W8. How is the information displayed? YOu folks in the EU get all the bells and whistles.


    Check your Bentley... it pictures an oil pan w/ sensor.

    The mod is pretty simple in concept: machine oil pan for sensor or buy euro pan, add sensor and a wire or two, then recode your instrument cluster, and add 505.01 oil. I'd bet that adding one wouldn't be any more of a pain than adding one to the TDIs over on TDIClub but likely more $$ for the extra W8 pan or more hassle pulling it... check the OEM+ mods sticky post for info.

    I think the data was inconclusive there... one or two folks did oil analysis and thought that the sensor triggered an oil change too late, but who knows. Although your extended drain interval can be 2-3x your non-flexible one, the oils cost twice as much. Probably not a cost-savings mod, but cool nonetheless.
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      Quote R32Viper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-Apr-2007 at 11:02
    One question waz the other white thing that you see besides the oil pan filter. The white thing

    Edited by R32Viper - 19-Apr-2007 at 02:58
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