The W8 forum Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Problems, Tips and Tricks About the W8 > Do It Yourself Guides
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed: Replacing brake pads and rotors
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

 Shoutbox  Your message
You must log in to shout!

Replacing brake pads and rotors

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123 4>
Author
Message
Corwin View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 07-Jun-2007
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 191
  Quote Corwin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Replacing brake pads and rotors
    Posted: 13-Apr-2008 at 12:09
This is fairly easy but just in case someone is thinking about doing it but wants to know how much work is involved first, here ya go:

Tools needed:
-Largish flathead screwdriver
-Lug wrench for wheel bolts
-Wrench w/ 6" extension and 22mm socket
-1-2 ft. long breaker bar for added leverage

1) Remove wheel ( )

2) Insert the tip of the flathead screwdriver between the upper outer pad and the caliper (you'll see a slot to put it in) and pry apart. This will pull the caliper toward you, away from the pad. THis may require some force.

3) Pull the pad out upwards. Repeat with lower outside pad.

4) With both outer pads removed press the caliper inward, exposing the two inner pads. You should be able to just pull these pads out. You'll notice that the upper pad has a wire connected to it - that's the wear sensor. After pulling out this pad disconnect the wire via the plastic connector.

5) Now that you have all of the pads removed, it's time to remove the caliper. You will need the wrench, extension, 22mm socket, breaker bar and some serious muscle. There are two 22mm bolts holding the calipers to the hub, one on top, one on botom. As you would hope they are torqued on there pretty tight. The top one will require you use the extension. All I can tell you is get in a position where you have a lot of leverage and push. Watch your knuckles. (NOTE: You do not need to remove the bottom bolt completely, just unscrew it about half way.

6) When you've got the top bolt off and the bottom one loosened pretty far you should be able to just pull the rotor out. If it's the original and been on the car a long time it may not easily come free, so tap the back of it with a hammer or mallet until it comes free. There are no additional bolts holding the rotors on - they are held in place by the wheel lugs.

7) Just repeat the process on the second side and reinstall. Remember to torque the calipers down tight!

The whole process shouldn't take more than a couple of hours if you're at all mechanically inclined. And you save yourself $2-300 in labor at a shop.
Back to Top
BlueSteW8 View Drop Down
Super Poster
Super Poster


Joined: 08-Dec-2006
Location: SW-FL, US
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 906
  Quote BlueSteW8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-Apr-2008 at 16:06
S4Girl.com has pictures...

Edited by BlueSteW8 - 13-Apr-2008 at 22:08
2003 W8 Tip Limousine - locked in sports mode
GIAC pump/stock/ race files
Blue Spirit/ Black
Back to Top
Corwin View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 07-Jun-2007
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 191
  Quote Corwin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-Apr-2008 at 17:34
^ True, but pads is easy. Takes maybe 10 minutes each wheel. Rotors too is a whole different ball game.
Back to Top
BlueSteW8 View Drop Down
Super Poster
Super Poster


Joined: 08-Dec-2006
Location: SW-FL, US
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 906
  Quote BlueSteW8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-Apr-2008 at 22:05
I've done front and rear brakes and rotors on a 4Motion Passat as well.
The front calipers on the W8 are the only real difference - other than the rear rotors being vented, of course.
2003 W8 Tip Limousine - locked in sports mode
GIAC pump/stock/ race files
Blue Spirit/ Black
Back to Top
B5crazy View Drop Down
Super Poster
Super Poster
Avatar

Joined: 08-Dec-2006
Location: Central NY
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1222
  Quote B5crazy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-Oct-2008 at 20:27
FYI, the caliper carrier bolts are 21mm and not 22mm.

Also, before starting make sure that you have the correct pads. There are four pads per wheel but three different designs. The two outside pads are the same with a single large bump on the back. Both inside pads have a two smaller bumps. However, one pad will also have a wire attached for the wear sensor.

One other thing, 140ft-lbs for the caliper carrier bolts is crazy.

Edited by B5crazy - 26-Oct-2008 at 04:08
2004 W8 Variant 6MT Pacific Blue/Grey
1992 Cabriolet
2012 Golf R 4dr CW

http://mysite.verizon.net/b5crazy/
Back to Top
lyrinx View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: 20-Jan-2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 47
  Quote lyrinx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-Feb-2009 at 23:13
I just thought that I'll share with my quote just recived from City VW Chicago:

Oil & filter service – $94.35    
Front brake pad replacement - $292.54    
Rear brake pad replacement - $282.30


I just can't belive, $300 just for front pads, what are they, gold ?
I'm not even asking for rotors/pads on all wheels it would be probably $1,000...

BTW planning to buy "PBR/Axxis Ultimate FRONT Brake Pad Set" ($94.00) minus some special discount from Passat world. Any thoughts about those pads ?
Back to Top
straightw8 View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 07-Oct-2007
Location: Chicago
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 287
  Quote straightw8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-Feb-2009 at 13:13
that sounds about right. I paid about $400 at autobarn mt. prospect for my rear pads/rotors to get done. Those are a bit more difficult to change yourself, as you need a special tool (which is available for purchase) and some skill.
Back to Top
Manowar View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: 15-Jan-2009
Location: LI, NY
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 66
  Quote Manowar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-Feb-2009 at 13:10
Straight,
Could you elaborate on the piston tool to wind in the rear pistons and the "some skill" you refer to? Any procedural help appreciated.
Rotor and pads have about 8K on them done by the stealer so naturally they make noise.
I need to get to the heart of my rear squeal issue before I use the .45 caliber solution.


Edited by Manowar - 16-Feb-2009 at 13:11
Manowar
Back to Top
fitzski View Drop Down
Super Poster
Super Poster


Joined: 11-Dec-2006
Location: Ottawa, ON
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 778
  Quote fitzski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-Feb-2009 at 20:02
The proper tool is available from Metalnerd:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Detail?no=313


Do places like AutoZone or PepBoys rent tools? If so, I'm sure they'd have one as well.

It's not strictly necessary (do you have 3 hands?), but it makes the job a LOT easier.
2003 Passat W8 Variant
(Pacific Blue, Tan, 6sp)
Back to Top
straightw8 View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 07-Oct-2007
Location: Chicago
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 287
  Quote straightw8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-Feb-2009 at 20:35
thanks fitz. Manowar, I've never actually done the rears before, I'm just aware of the challenges that are posed. I guess you have to rotate the pad out of place (or something like that) while using your hands to pull. Again, I'm not actually sure what the procedure is, but I know the tool makes it much easier.

I can't imagine it would be too expensive, though.

Edited by straightw8 - 16-Feb-2009 at 20:40
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123 4>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.56a
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz

This page was generated in 0,094 seconds.